Monday, July 7, 2008

Day 40: Good-Bye, Hello

I'm sitting here in my hotel room at the Crystal Palace in Sofia, Bulgaria all packed and ready to go to the airport, but I thought I'd write one last time. My plane leaves early afternoon and I fly from Sofia to Frankfurt, have an hour lay-over, and then am off to Chicago.

Throughout this trip I have been gone for 40 days,
Moved around to 17 different hotels,
Met and become friends with 15 people,
Seen ancient ruins that date to 10,000 BC,
Learned basic Greek and Bulgarian,
and had a wonderful experience!

See you all hopefully soon!

Sincerely,
Ms. G

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Day 39: Mountain Climbing and Dressing Up

It was off to Vitshova Mountain again today...but this time with the whole Fulbright group. We ended up climbing up together on an "off-the-beaten-path" kind of trail. It was so much fun because we were really having to hop over the rocks! Dad, you would have loved it because of all the nature smells and the beautiful scenery. Today was definitely a day you would have enjoyed! By the way, the picture to the left is Bob climbing down the mountain.

Anyway, we climbed up for a ways and then on the way we took a different path, which we learned pretty quickly wasn't really a path at all...it was more of man-made trail...and by man-made, I mean the leader in our group was making it! It was tough climbing and definitely took more time climbing down than climbing up the mountain! I ended up sliding a bit on some of the long grass. You can see from the picture how green everything is here on the mountain!

After climbing we sat at a cafe for an hour or so before lunch. Finally we had our Farewell Dinner which was at a really nice restaurant here downtown. I had heard from Ms. Lina that it was good, so I wasn't surprised when the food was fantastic. Besides having great food and wine, I had great company. I got to say good-bye to all the Fulbright staff along with my Fellow Fulbright-ers, whom I have now spent 39 days with.

This picture below is of Amy and me in the lobby of our hotel, waiting to get on the bus for dinner.
This picture seems to capture the excitement at our table. I can't take credit for the picture though.

Here is a picture of Mark, Amy, and I after our great dinner!

And finally, here is our group picture. We are standing behind the window which overlooks Vitshova Mountain (where we went climbing today).

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Day 38: Shopping, Cafe-ing, and Lunching

I had a lovely day today: it was our free day and Amy and I relaxed and made the most of it! We started out walking around Nevski's Cathedral because there are usually tons of tables set up with antiques, Nazi paraphernalia, textiles, and icons. The picture to the left is of the shops. It's a great place to find lots of souvenirs (which I did! For myself and others).



Unfortunately the shops weren't set up by 10 o'clock in the morning. Instead there were tons of people flocking to the Cathedral. There was a huge line of people, mostly women, carrying flowers. Besides the people lined up to go into the church, there were fire trucks, police officers, and military all around the area. It's weird being in a foreign country, not understanding the language and having NO idea what's going on. It sounded like a Communist take-over because of the man on the speaker-phone. Amy and I ended up going to the Folk Museum shop and after buying some gifts found out from the clerk that Bulgaria has three magical icons and all three had come to Nevski's Cathedral today. It is believed that by touching all three, the person will have good luck. 

Now that Amy and I were in the know, we went to a cafe for some pop. The picture to the left is of Amy, Bob (AKA "Prez") and me.

We spent a good two hours just talking...how European of us! Then we went to lunch and back out shopping. The tables were set up and I bought an icon and some Russian/Bulgarian Nesting Dolls...both of which I had been wanting to get.

Tomorrow we're off to the mountain and then it's to the airport for the 14 hour flight back to Chicago! Hope you're all well :)

Day 37: Shakespeare in Bulgarian


We had our Wrap-Up Session today...the final lecture here in Bulgaria. It was a great time to talk about the things we've learned about Bulgarian history, art, and culture. During the Bulgaria part of the Fulbright, we have had seven wonderful women traveling with us and helping us out from the Fulbright Office. They are pictured to the left. They are: Anna, Iolanta, Anastasia, Julia, Rada, Maria, and Snejana.


At the end of the session, Myra, Kristen, Amy, and I had a surprise for our fellow Fulbright-ers: a slideshow of our trip! It definitely surprised people and it went over really well. First we played a game on PowerPoint called: How Well do you know your Fellow Fulbrighters? We all got all the answers right...GO US! I guess living, traveling, and learning with 15 other people for 40 days gets you to know people quickly! We then had a 15 minute slideshow with music that we played for everyone which was funny and sentimental at the same time. It reminded us how many places we have gone: Athens, Corinth, Nafplion, Olympia, Delphi, Kalambaka/Meteroa, Thessaloniki, Ouronoupolis, Lake Kerkini, Sofia, Veliko Turnovo, Arbanassi, Shumen, Aladja, Etura, Varna, Nessebar, Bourgas, Sozopol, Plovdiv, and Brestovista. Wow! The pictures to the left are of Myra and Kristen preparing to show our PowerPoint.

We all then had lunch at the hotel. The hotel food is usually wonderful, but today was the first day I thought I may have to go hungry because the picture to the left is what came on my plate! I actually jumped a bit when the waiter put the fish in front of me, because the head was pointed right at me, the huge eyes staring at me, and the teeth gleaming. Yuck! Fortunately for me, though, Amy was sitting next to me and she cut it open and pulled out the meat for me. It had actually been cooked in lemon and then stuffed back into the fish, so I could push the actual face off my plate and just eat my fish. The only problem was Paul's fish staring at me...but I was still okay! Go me :)

Finally we went to see Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream at the National Theatre just a few blocks away from our hotel. It was opening night and the whole thing was in Bulgarian. But it was wonderful! The actors were so great that I knew what was going on all the time. I took a picture of the theatre (to the left) at the end of the show -- I didn't take it at the beginning in case I would have to run away! :) The usher didn't seem to mind my picture-taking though; she actually came up to me after the show to tell me to take a look up on the second floor because of the beautiful chandeliers! The theatre was beautifully decorated in all gold and it's too bad the picture is so dark...but at least it gives you an idea of what it looks like.

Well, Cheers for now! I only have two full days left until I'm headed back to Chicago!

Day 36: Heading back to Sofia

This is a picture of our Fulbright group with several teachers from the English Department of Plovdiv University, who we met with today. (I'm on the left side with the pink shirt and green skirt)

Today we had a tour of Plovdiv and journeyed back to Sofia. When we toured around the old part of Plovdiv, I realized that I wished we had more time here in this city. It is a fascinating place with a very ancient and complicated history. The city used to be named Philipopolis after Philip II (whose tomb you saw a picture of when I was writing about Greece). Philip the second, as you will recall, was the father of Alexander the Great. People in Plovdiv will still call the city Philipopolis occasionally. 

Plovdiv was badly damaged, as were all other cities, during the Ottoman invasion. The Turks called the city Phiibe. Fortunately, though, several ancient landmarks are still around. One is the amphitheater which is in the middle of the town square. This theatre was used for lion battles during the Roman domination period!

When we got back to the hotel to pack up our luggage into our bus, we realized we had a different bus than the rest of our tour -- a small little red bus, which we nicknamed Little Red (Our Greece bus was named "Hays" and our old Bulgarian bus was "Cobra"). Anyway, Little Red was cute, but our luggage definitely did not fit! I don't think the tour company remembered that all sixteen of us packed for 6 weeks of travel...we have a lot of stuff! While some of us grumbled about the bus, I couldn't help but laugh at the predicament. We ended up having a two hour bus ride back to Sofia with luggage in the aisle of the bus...but we got back safely!

On the drive we saw lot of sunflower fields. They are very common here...it's one of the "farms" they have. They were beautiful fields, so I had to take some pictures from the bus window. I also learned that the farms were much better during Communism because all the farms were government-owned and so the farming tools were provided by the government. Now a days, farmers can't afford to buy new farming equipment because it's so expensive.

When we came to the Eagle Bride and the two bronze brothers sitting on the college steps of Sofia, I felt like I was home. I knew our hotel was only three blocks away and I was very excited. We stay here for about 4-5 days and then I come back to Chicago! This is definitely the beginning of the end...I'm very excited to come home and get into a routine, but traveling around these two countries has been an amazing experience. 

Well, I finally will leave you with a picture of Danitza and Petko, our Tour Guide and Bus Driver here in Bulgaria. Hope you're all doing well at home! See you soon :)

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Day 35: Sozopol and Plovdiv


So we’ve been on the Black Sea Coast for the past three or four days and now we start our journey westward: west to Plovdiv, west to Sofia, west to Germany, and finally west to Chicago. I’m glad that we’re on the last leg of our trip…I’m ready to come home, even though I’ve had a great time traveling through Greece and Bulgaria.

Today we had a long bus ride, but it was cut up between to great towns. We first visited Sozopol on the Black Sea Coast (pictured to the left). The town was quaint and pretty with lots of tourist shops. Most of the shops contained the basic tourist souvenirs, but I was lucky enough to walk through to the end of the town and found a great artist, whom I bought a piece of artwork from. It’s very original…I haven’t seen anything else like it.


Then Kristen, Myra, and I took up the European way of life and went to have a coffee on the beach at a little cafĂ©. We sat and talked for over an hour, while having the sea as our view. We then went to eat lunch at a great little place on the sea coast called The Windmill where we ate (or at least everyone else but me ate) fish soup. The dessert was great though! ☺


We then drove a good three to four hours to Plovdiv. As we passed through the countryside we saw lots of farms, but also saw lots of sunflower fields. Here in Bulgaria that is one of the commodities that is grown: sunflowers. So we would pass fields after fields of sunflower fields.

Finally in the evening we arrived at our final destination for the evening: Plovdiv. Plovdiv is the second largest city in Bulgaria, with 4,000 people. It is a very European-looking city in the old part of the city. The buildings look newer and not box-y that is common for the Communist era (like the outskirts of the city). The town is over 8,000 years old. The Thracian tribe settled this area, which is in the valley of the mountains that cut Bulgaria in half from the northern and southern party.

Since we arrived later in the evening, we walked to dinner and are now getting ready for bed. Tomorrow we will be meeting some teachers at the Plovdiv University and having a tour of the old part of the city (the city is known for its embroidery and ceramics…so maybe more shopping will be in store???) and then traveling on to a winery and then back to Sofia (yay!).

Hope you’re all doing well!

Ms. G

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Day 34: Education, School Bathrooms, and a Quiz: How American Are YOU?

Today we visited the English Language High School. At the English Language High School we learned quite a bit more about education here in Bulgaria, and the current view is not very good...there is hope, but things are dire at the moment. The school puts out an English newspaper called The SCOOL Times and has some articles from teachers and students. One article reads: "Are we willing to change? ... in my opinion, [this] is simply a reflection of our society's problems. Here are the facts:
* We live in Bulgaria
* Bulgaria has problems
* Bulgaria has BIG problems
* In Bulgaria nobody cares about education"

It is very sad to hear the teachers and students here talk about education, since the government seems to value it so little. As I've told you before, the average teacher salary is 400 lev a month (a lev is almost equal to a U.S. dollar). A teacher here cannot live on this salary...prices are very similar here as in the U.S. and we definitely couldn't live on 400 Dollars a month!

A teacher writes, "I have worked in my school with passion and I can proudly say my work has brought many positive changes to the school environment and the lives of many students. It breaks my heart to watch my school go to rack and ruin, years of hard work go to waste. It hurts like hell to see the disillusionment in the eyes of my colleagues, the loss of motivation in both students and teachers. Have we really reached a dead end? Sadly, I see no easy solution and have little hope for the future of education in Bulgaria, unless some people at the top begin to realize that a country with bad education is doomed to failure."

In September and October of 2007 the teachers went on strike. The students here in Bourgas supported these teachers and so picketed with them. The were striking because of their non-living wage, growing violence, and complete lack of any materials. Any materials the teachers want to use, they have to pay for themselves: textbooks, multimedia, etc. The buildings are also falling down. 

At this particular school there was no air conditioning at all, the paint was severely peeling, and there were no real materials for the students to use. The bathrooms were Turkish toilets (just a hole in the ground) and there was no toilet paper or sinks to wash your hands. Compare this to the bathrooms at Prosser...we definitely have it good. I haven't seen any flies in the girls' washroom! And there were tons here at the English High School. The consensus is here that most students would rather hold it and wait till they get home than go to the bathroom at school!

Anyway, on to a brighter point: the students attending this school are awesome. We met two of them (the rest are on summer holiday). The students attending this school are the brightest and about 90% of them plan to study abroad after graduating.

I read a bit more through the school newspaper and came across an interesting quiz called "How American Are You? Take the quiz and find out if you see eye to eye with an American teenager on life, love and the pursuit of happiness. Discover the truth about Americans' and Bulgarians' teen lifestyles."

Okay, so are you ready for the quiz? Do you fit into the norm?

1. Friday night is the best night to:
    a. stay at home and sleep
    b. do your homework 
    c. go to a movie
    d. go out with friends all night
ANS: c (most American teens do this because they have a curfew and can't stay out all night long, but they always have a 'late night snack' at the movies!)

2. You want to know:
    a. Is George Bush Democrat or Republican?
    b. Who is George Bush?
    c. When will there be another president?
    d. Why do George Bush's policies reflect the non-realist approach to the middle-east crisis.
ANS: c (most American teens want and push for change. They believe there can be change and that things will get better in their lifetime).

3. Your favorite kind of movie is:
    a. one with a happy ending
    b. a true story based on real people
    c. a black and white older film
    d. a foreign film with subtitles
ANS: a (most American teens like happy endings because they feel like they deal with real life enough and want the fantasy of a good movie ending)

4. You have some free time, so you want to:
    a. sit at a cafe
    b. call some friends and go for a walk
    c. go to your next activity early and wait
    d. I don't have free time
ANS: d (most American teens have no free time because they are involved in so many activities. If they do have free time they would not sit at a cafe, like Bulgarian teens, because it would feel like doing nothing.)

5. Your friend tells you that your shirt is too small. You:
    a. tell your friend that he/she is wrong
    b. don't care
    c. are hurt and avoid your friend for a while
    d. are happy that your friend talked to you
ANS: c (most American teens tend to be sensitive and if your opinion isn't asked, you shouldn't give it to them.)

Have a good rest of your day! Cheers!